Lamb Shanks: How to Braise Them Properly

Lamb shanks are one of the great comfort foods: a whole portion of meat on the bone, slow-cooked until it slips away at the touch of a fork. They take time, but almost all of it is hands-off.

What a Shank Is

The shank is the lower part of the leg. It is a hard-working muscle wrapped in connective tissue, which makes it tough if cooked quickly and wonderfully rich and gelatinous when braised. Foreshanks, from the front legs, are smaller and meatier for their size. Hindshanks are bigger. Many shanks are sold "frenched", with the top of the bone cleaned, which looks neat on the plate.

Allow one shank per person.

The Method

For four shanks:

1. Heat the oven to 160°C.
2. Pat the shanks dry, season them well and dust lightly with flour.
3. Brown them in a heavy casserole in a little oil, two at a time, until deep golden on every side. Lift them out.
4. In the same pot, soften a chopped onion, two carrots and two sticks of celery for 8 to 10 minutes. Add four cloves of garlic and two tablespoons of tomato paste and cook for another minute.
5. Pour in about 375ml of red wine and let it bubble for a few minutes, scraping up the browned bits.
6. Add a 400g tin of chopped tomatoes, about 500ml of beef or chicken stock, two sprigs of rosemary and a bay leaf.
7. Return the shanks. The liquid should come about two thirds of the way up. Bring it to a simmer.
8. Cover and braise in the oven for 2½ to 3 hours, turning the shanks once or twice, until the meat is pulling away from the bone.

Finish the Sauce

Lift out the shanks and keep them warm. Skim the fat from the sauce, then simmer it on the stovetop until it is thick and glossy. Taste and season. Pour it back over the shanks.

Make Them a Day Ahead

Shanks are even better the next day. Cool them in the sauce, refrigerate within two hours, and the next day lift off the layer of fat that has set on top. Reheat gently in a covered pot at 160°C for 30 to 40 minutes, until piping hot right through.

In the Slow Cooker

Brown the shanks and soften the vegetables first, as above, then transfer everything to the slow cooker with a little less liquid, as nothing evaporates. Cook on low for 7 to 8 hours. Reduce the sauce in a pan at the end.

What to Serve With Them

Creamy mashed potato is the classic, but soft polenta, colcannon, or crusty bread to mop up the sauce all work. Add some buttered greens or peas for colour. A gremolata of lemon zest, parsley and garlic sprinkled on top cuts through the richness.

For more cold-weather cuts, see Winter Warmers. Ask at the counter and we'll french your shanks for you.